Sussex by Rail: 48 Hours Hiking the Hills of Midhurst and Blackdown
Stand tall on the highest point in the South Downs National Park
Transport yourself to another world on South Western Railway’s direct London Waterloo to Haslemere service. In just 50 minutes you can leave the ruckus and flurry of London behind as you embark on a journey to the glorious, beautiful and serene South Downs National Park.
A hiking adventure in the hills awaits. So sit back, relax and unwind - as you travel as generations have done before you - on the Great British Railway.
Once you’ve arrived at your destination you’ll travel around the area by bus, not just saving the pennies, but helping preserve the planet too.
Now you’ve left the bustling city behind, there’s no better way to immerse yourself into country life than indulging in a leisurely brunch in one of our historic market towns.
Haslemere - the town you’ve arrived in - is the gateway to South Downs National Park. Explore the wide range of independent eateries serving up fresh, local produce here, before taking a gentle wander around the independent shops and boutiques in the town centre. Don’t overdo it too much as you’ll be heading off on a hike to the highest point of the South Downs National Park this afternoon. But do grab a takeaway lunch before you go.
Don’t miss: If you want to squeeze in a quick dose of culture, head to Haslemere Educational Museum where you'll come face to face with Arthur the Bear and up close and personal with the big toe of an Egyptian mummy.
You can’t trek in the South Downs National Park without heading to its highest point; Black Down. With a summit elevation of 279.7 metres, Black Down is the highest point in both Sussex and the South Downs, and one of the highest points in South East England too. Unsurprisingly, the views here are some of the best you may ever encounter across the British countryside.
It’ll take you 30 minutes to reach Tennyson’s Lane National Trust Car Park (GU27 3BJ) on foot from the centre of Haslemere. From here, follow a 3.5-mile loop around the woodland, heathland and hollows of Black Down, taking in the panoramic views east and south over the Weald, and west across the vale of Fernhurst to Hampshire.
Download a route map here.
Enjoy a picnic lunch, before venturing back to Haslemere Railway Station to catch the once-hourly bus service 70* to Midhurst Bus Station. At the heart of the South Downs National Park and home to its Visitor Centre, the quintessentially British market town of Midhurst is a 25-minute direct bus journey from Haslemere.
Fun fact: The name Midhurst was first recorded in 1186 as Middeherst, meaning middle wooded hill or place among the wooded hills.
*Please note: The bus service runs until 18:40 Monday to Saturday. On Sundays, book transport via Book a Bus (booking required 48 hours in advance).
Enjoy dinner at The Swan Inn or The Spread Eagle Hotel and Spa Restaurant in the historic centre of Midhurst, both favouring fine, local Sussex produce. There is live music on Saturday nights at The Swan Inn, perfect for soaking up the sounds of the local talent. Or, if it's a classy touch of international flair you’re seeking, visit Fratelli Italian Restaurant on West Street.
For post dinner drinks, take the short wander to Faustino’s Wine & Tapas Bar, a hidden Spanish gem on Midhurst’s high street, serving up Sangria and Spanish brandy. If you are looking for a traditional country pub experience, take the 20-minute walk to the bottom of the town where you’ll find The Royal Oak and The Greyhound, both home to delightful pub gardens.
Make the most of your day with an early breakfast at one of Midhurst’s many independent cafés. Pop to Comestibles on Red Lion Street or Garton’s Coffee House in the Market Square for breakfast with a view. Midhurst is brimming with tempting independent shops so don't miss the opportunity to pick up a memento of your time here.
It's time to get the walking boots back on now as you’ll be exploring more of the South Downs National Park, taking in Midhurst and the picture-perfect neighbouring villages of Woolbeding, Stedham and Easebourne.
Follow an eight-mile loop from the centre of Midhurst, over the medieval Woolbeding Bridge, along the picturesque River Rother, up to the exquisite Stedham Mill, past Eastshaw Farm, through chestnut coppice and back to Midhurst’s award-winning Cowdray Farm Shop. Trekking along a variety of terrains and offering the chance to spot a myriad of wildlife along the way, this scenic trek offers the perfect opportunity to reconnect with nature and reap all the benefits of countryside living. The trek takes between three and four hours.
Download a route map here.
Don’t miss: Whilst walking through Woolbeding, you’ll want to steal a glimpse of the National Trust’s Woolbeding Gardens. Open between April and October, on set days and pre-booking only, Woolbeding Gardens are a masterpiece of colour and design.
The trek ends at Cowdray Farm Shop Café, offering the perfect destination for your last meal in Sussex. If your visit falls on a Sunday and you wish to indulge in a carvery, pop up the road to Cowdray Golf Club. Menus at both establishments feature delicious seasonal, and award-winning local produce. Pop into Cowdray Farm Shop before you leave. With so many tempting, award-winning goods on offer from artisan cheeses, charcuterie and luxury treats, you’ll be hard pressed to leave empty-handed.
Head back to Midhurst via Cowdray Ruins; the ruins of one of England’s most important early Tudor houses, which once rivalled Hampton Court. With links to Henry VIII, Elizabeth I and even Guy Fawkes, the house was largely destroyed by a fire in the 1790s but has remained a picturesque ruin ever since.
Don’t miss: If you want to learn more about the huge range of activities on offer in the sprawling South Downs National Park - stretching from Winchester to Eastbourne - pop into the South Downs Visitor Centre located across the road from Midhurst Bus Station.
It’s now time to travel back to Haslemere railway station via bus service 70 (or on Sunday’s using Book a Bus) and then onwards to London Waterloo, via the 50-minute direct train service you arrived on.
Great brunch options in Haslemere: The Georgian Coppa Club, Hemingways of Haslemere, The Lions Den Café, The Courtyard Café, Oliver’s Coffee and Heidi's.
Great dinner options in Midhurst: Kemaelli's, Fratelli, The Greyhound, The Half Moon, The Royal Oak, The Restaurant @ The Spread Eagle, The Midhurst Restaurant, Lime & Spice
Great places to stay in Midhurst: For pub accommodation: The Swan Inn, for a luxurious stay: The Spread Eagle Hotel, for bed and breakfast accommodation: The Old Store Guesthouse, Cowdray Park Golf Lodge, for self catering: TreeHouses Retreats
Great places for breakfast in Midhurst: Cowdray Farm Shop Café, Kemaelli’s, Comestibles, Coskuns Café, Garton’s Coffee House, Tilly’s of Midhurst, Fitzcanes, The Lions Den Café.
Great places for lunch in Midhurst: Cowdray Farm Shop Café, Cowdray Golf Club, Fratelli Italian Restaurant, Kemaelli’s, Comestibles, Coskuns Café, Garton’s Coffee House, Tilly’s of Midhurst, Fitzcanes, The Lions Den Café.
London Waterloo to Haslemere: 50 minutes (direct train)
Haslemere to Portsmouth: 45 minutes (direct train)
Haslemere to Gatwick: 1 hours 15 minutes (one change at Guildford)
Haslemere to Brighton: 1 hour 45 minutes (one change at Havant)
